7-Step Craftsmanship for Knitted Clothing

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Update time : 2025-01-16

Knitted clothing is mostly made of cotton and synthetic cotton yarn, which are characterized by softness, elasticity, breathability, sweat absorption, and comfortable wearing, such as sportswear and underwear. Knitted clothing, as clothing, not only has similarities with woven clothing, but also has its own characteristics.

technological process:

Spinning → Weaving → Fabric Inspection → Cutting → Sewing → Ironing → Inspection

The purpose of spinning yarn is to wind the cotton yarn entering the factory into a certain structure and specification of packaging tube, suitable for knitting production. In the spinning process, it is necessary to eliminate some defects on the yarn, and at the same time, make the yarn have a certain uniform tension. Necessary auxiliary treatments such as waxing and oiling should be carried out on the yarn to improve its weaving performance, increase production efficiency, and improve product quality.

NO. 2 Weaving is the process of weaving yarn into rolls and intertwining them on a loom to create a fabric. This is also the fundamental difference between knitted clothing and woven clothing. Weaving methods can be divided into two categories: weft knitting and warp knitting. Most fabrics used for knitted clothing are weft knitted fabrics. Weft knitting is the process of feeding one or several yarns from the warp direction onto the working needle of a knitting machine, sequentially bending the yarns into loops and stringing them together to form a knitted fabric. The machine used to weave this type of knitted fabric is called a weft knitting machine. Weft knitting has a great adaptability to the types and line densities of processed yarns, and the variety of knitted fabrics produced is also very wide. There are many varieties of weft knitted fabrics, which can be woven into various fabrics for inner and outer clothing, as well as into single piece and partially formed products. At the same time, the process and machine structure of weft knitting are relatively simple, easy to operate, and the production efficiency of machines is relatively high. Therefore, weft knitting has a large proportion in the knitting industry. There are many types of weft knitting machines, generally distinguished by the number of needle beds, the form of needle beds, and the type of needles used. Warping is a process in which one or several sets of parallel yarns are arranged on needles and woven longitudinally. The machine used to weave this type of knitted fabric is called a warp knitting machine. Generally, warp knitted fabrics have less looseness and extensibility than weft knitted fabrics, and their structure and shape are more stable. They have a wide range of uses, including producing clothing fabrics, mosquito nets, curtains, lace decorative fabrics, medical fabrics, etc. Warp knitting machines can also be distinguished by needle bed and needle type.

NO. 3 Fabric Inspection: As the quality of the raw fabric directly affects the quality and output of the finished product, before cutting, it is necessary to check whether the number of pieces, size, density, batch number, and line density meet the requirements according to the cutting fabric ingredient list. During fabric inspection, the raw fabric should be inspected one by one according to the standards. Various defects that affect the quality of the finished product, such as color spots, missing needles, holes, oil stains, etc., must be marked and quality records must be kept.

The main process of cutting knitted clothing is as follows: cutting → borrowing defects → drawing samples → cutting → bundling. Borrowing defects is an important part of improving product quality and saving materials. During the cutting process, try to borrow defects on the fabric to the cutting or sewing areas as much as possible. Knitted fabrics are cut according to the warp mesh auxiliary materials, and the cutting method is generally through nesting. Commonly used methods include flat nesting, interlocking nesting, inlay nesting, splicing nesting, and slitting nesting. The following precautions should be taken when cutting knitted fabrics:

(1) Do not use areas with folding marks or printed edges on prominent parts of clothing.

(2) Do not use taper marks during cutting to avoid affecting the appearance of the finished garment.

The current sewing technology and equipment in China's knitting industry are mainly composed of medium and high-speed flat sewing machines (commonly known as "flat sewing machines"), medium and high-speed overlock sewing machines (commonly known as "sewing machines"), and overlock sewing machines. Due to the fact that knitted fabrics are composed of looped loops, the edges of the cut pieces are prone to detachment. Therefore, the edges of the pieces should be overlock (commonly known as "edge stitching") before being sewn using a flat sewing machine or other sewing techniques. Flat sewing machines and overlock sewing machines are the main models for sewing knitted garments. During the sewing process, it is generally important to pay attention to the following key points. 1. Seam; Due to the longitudinal and transverse extensibility (i.e. elasticity) of knitted fabrics and the disadvantage of easy detachment of edge loops, the stitching of knitted garments should meet the following requirements:

(1) Stitching should have stretchability and strength suitable for knitted fabrics.

(2) The seam should be able to prevent the fabric coil from coming loose.

(3) Properly control the density of the seams. For thick fabrics, the stitch density of the flat sewing machine is controlled at 9-10 needles/2cm, while for overlock fabrics it is 6-7 needles/2cm. For thin fabrics, the stitch density of the flat sewing machine is controlled at 10-11 needles/2cm, while for overlock fabrics it is 7-8 needles/2cm.

2. Suture; Generally, pure cotton knitted fabrics use 9.8tex × 4 or 7.4tex × 3 pure cotton and polyester cotton blended yarns, while synthetic knitted fabrics use 7.8tex × 2 elastic nylon yarns and 5tex × 6 nylon yarns. The stitching must meet the following quality requirements:

(1) The pure cotton thread (sewing thread) used for sewing machines should be combed cotton thread, which has high strength and uniformity.

(2) Stitching should have a certain degree of elasticity to prevent breakage during the sewing process due to twisting or squeezing of the thread.

(3) The suture must have flexibility.

(4) The stitching must be evenly and smoothly cut to reduce obstruction or friction in the grooves and pinholes, and to avoid defects such as breakage and uneven tension in the stitching. Sewing machine needle, also known as sewing needle or machine needle. In order to achieve the ideal match between the sewing needle, material, and thread, it is necessary to choose the appropriate sewing needle.

NO. 6 Ironing Knitted Clothing is made to have a flat appearance and accurate size through ironing. When ironing, insert a lining board inside the garment to maintain a certain shape and size of the product. The size of the lining board should be slightly larger than that required for the finished garment to prevent it from shrinking too small. The temperature for ironing is generally controlled between 180 ℃ and 200 ℃, which is safer and less likely to cause yellowing or coking.

NO. 7 Finished Product Inspection Finished product inspection is a comprehensive inspection before the product leaves the factory, including two major items: appearance quality and internal quality. The appearance inspection content includes dimensional tolerances, appearance defects, seam fastness, etc. The internal testing items include fabric weight per unit area, color fastness, shrinkage rate, etc.

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